福州/去哪里引产慧聪求医
时间:2017年12月18日 22:32:43

A few years ago, Beyoncé Knowles was like any other record-breaking pop star in an aly crowded field. Then something changed.几年前,碧昂斯·诺尔斯(Beyoncé Knowles)像其他任何打破记录的流行歌星一样,是本已拥挤的歌坛的一员。然后有些事情发生了变化。If you#39;ve ever seen Beyoncé Knowles astride a concert stage or a red carpet, you know she is a woman with a flair for dramatic entrances. But no previous coup de théatre prepared the world for the arrival of the singer#39;s fifth full-length solo record, ;Beyoncé,; the ;visual album; that airdropped onto iTunes at midnight on Dec. 13, 2013. For months, the music press had seethed with speculation about Beyoncé#39;s delayed record release, with rumors of disastrous studio sessions and dozens of scrapped songs. ;There is utter disarray in Beyoncé#39;s camp,; the website MediaTakeOut.com hissed. It was an unheard-of turn of events for Beyoncé, whose career had been a testament to, as it were, array: a regal, orderly parade from hit to hit, milestone to milestone, strength to strength.如果你曾见过碧昂斯·诺尔斯登上音乐会舞台或踏上红毯的情景,你就知道她是个具有戏剧化登场天分的女人。但是之前的轰动并没有让世界准备好迎接她的第五张个人完整长度专辑《碧昂斯》(Beyoncé),这张“视觉专辑”于2013年12月13日午夜空降iTunes。之前的好几个月,音乐媒体因对碧昂斯专辑的推迟发行众说纷纭,有谣言说录音过程出现了灾难,几十首歌报废了。“碧昂斯的阵营出现了完全的混乱,”MediaTakeOut.com网站发出嘘声。对碧昂斯来说,这是前所未闻的剧变,因为之前她的事业像是有序的皇家阅兵,一首又一首金曲,一个又一个里程碑,她的实力不断增强。Sure enough, the alleged behind-the-scenes chaos turned out to be the usual behind-the-scenes order, in disguise: While the gossip mills whirred, Beyoncé stealthily recorded 14 songs and shot 17 s, which she unleashed in that December sneak attack. Purely as a feat of information management, ;Beyoncé; was impressive. The National Security Agency couldn#39;t stop its secrets from spilling all over the place; Beyoncé kept the lid on a project which, conservatively, involved hundreds of individuals — studio musicians, cameramen, key grips, personal assistants, even record executives, as a rule the least trustworthy people on the planet. The arrival of all that music, all at once and out of the blue, was an unprecedented shock-and-awe move, which rocked the record industry back on its heels and convulsed the Internet. A single Beyoncé is capable of staggering the senses; the simultaneous release of 17 of them — an onslaught of sound and spectacle and costumes and choreography and, in the case of a like the one for ;Rocket,; stately slow-motion images of billowing silk sheets and water droplets tumbling onto Beyoncé#39;s bare midriff — it was a lot to process. We can only imagine the feelings of Beyoncé#39;s pop diva competitors, whose carefully plotted monthslong album rollouts were instantly rendered quaint, and moot. That whining, whirring sound you heard on Dec. 13, mingling with the strains of ;Drunk in Love; — that was Lady Gaga, in her gloomy castle keep, chainsawing a meat dress into sackcloth.毋庸置疑,所谓的幕后混乱实际上是正常的幕后秩序:在流言满天飞的时候,碧昂斯暗自录了14首歌,拍了17个录影带,在12月份的那次突袭中一下子推出。《碧昂斯》像是一场信息管理的大胜仗,让人印象深刻。国家安全局都无法阻止自己的秘密四处泄露,碧昂斯却能严守自己项目的秘密,保守估计,这个项目涉及几百人——一般来说,录音室乐手、摄影师、道具员、私人助理,甚至包括录音主管都是世界上最不可信赖的人。这些作品突然全部发布是一个前所未有的令人震惊的举措,震惊了唱片业,震撼了互联网。碧昂斯的一个录影带就能让人大开眼界,同时发行17个,更是够人享受很长时间。这些录影带是声音、场面、装和编舞的猛烈冲击,而《火箭》(Rocket)这样的录影带中有丝绸汹涌飘动、水滴跌落到碧昂斯裸露腹部的慢镜头。我们只能想像其他和碧昂斯竞争流行天后的歌手们有何感受,她们花几个月时间精心策划的专辑发布瞬间变得徒劳无功。12月13日,伴着《醉在爱里》(Drunk in Love)的旋律,你可以听到Lady Gaga哀怨的呼叫,她在自己阴暗的城堡里把一件肉做的连衣裙锯成碎片。Beyoncé is 32 years old. She was 9 when she began singing with Girls Tyme, the group she formed with friends in her hometown, Houston; when the successor to Girls Tyme, Destiny#39;s Child, first cracked the Top 5 on the Billboard Hot 100, in 1998, Beyoncé was just 16. She never seemed like an ingénue, though: Even as a teenager, she had gravitas. In one of the centerpiece songs on the new album, Beyoncé gazes backwards: ;Look at me — I#39;m a big girl now . . . I#39;m a grown woman.; But the innocence-to-experience cliché doesn#39;t square with Beyoncé#39;s life, or art. From the beginning her message has been professionalism, perfectionism, power — ideals exemplified in her fearsome live performances and dramatized in songs that view romance through the lens of finance. Hits like ;Bills, Bills, Bills; (1999), ;Upgrade U; (2006) and ;Single Ladies (Put a Ring on It); (2008) have found Beyoncé figuratively hunched over a balance sheet, weighing the costs of affections dispensed and luxury goods accumulated. She#39;s afit star for our new gilded age, and an apt match, musical and otherwise, for her husband Jay Z, another arch-capitalist. In recent years, Beyoncé has toned down the materialism a bit, but ambition remains her calling card. In the torrid 2011 single ;Run the World (Girls); she sang: ;We#39;re smart enough to make these millions/Strong enough to bear the children/Then get back to business.; The song is a postfeminist anthem, sure. It#39;s also a business plan that she#39;s followed to a T.碧昂斯32岁了。她9岁起在女孩时间(Girls Tyme)乐团唱歌,那个乐团是她和朋友们在故乡休斯敦组建的。1998年“女孩时间”的后继者真命天女(Destiny#39;s Child)乐团第一次跻身“公告牌”百大金曲前五名时,碧昂斯才16岁。不过,她似乎从来没经历过天真少女的阶段:甚至在十几岁时,她都很稳重。在新专辑的一首主打歌中,碧昂斯回首过去:“看看我——我现在是大姑娘……是成熟的女人。”但是从无知到成熟的老套路线与碧昂斯的生活和事业都不吻合。从一开始,她传递的信息就是职业素质、完美主义和力量——这表现在她令人畏惧的现场表演中,体现在她透过金钱看爱情的歌曲中。像《钞票,钞票,钞票》(Bills, Bills, Bills, 1999)、《提升你》(Upgrade U, 2006)和《单身女士》(Single Ladies, 2008)这样的热门歌曲让人觉得碧昂斯在俯身看一张资产负债表,权衡付出的感情成本和积累的奢侈品的收益。她是适合我们这个新的镀金时代的明星;不管从音乐还是其他方面,她与丈夫Jay Z都十分般配,因为Jay Z也是业界重要的资本家。近些年,碧昂斯稍稍弱化了物质主义,但野心仍是她的重要特点。在2011年热情的单曲《统治世界》(Run the World)中她唱道:“我们足够聪明,能挣几百万/我们足够强大,能养育孩子/然后还能继续干事业。”这首歌当然是后女权主义的赞歌,也是她严格遵循的事业计划。In 2014, Beyoncé#39;s grip on the zeitgeist has become a stranglehold. A recent ;Saturday Night Live; skit revolved around the gag that Beyoncé-worship has become compulsory in the ed States, that Beyoncé refusniks will be tracked down and eliminated by deadly government goons, the Beygency. (;He turned against his country . . . and its queen,; boomed the voiceover.) As ;SNL; suggests, Beyoncé has become something more than just a superstar. She is a kind of national figurehead, an Entertainer in Chief; she is Americana. Someday, surely, her ;Single Ladies; leotard will take its place alongside Mickey Mouse and the Model T Ford and Louis Armstrong#39;s trumpet in a Smithsonian display case.2014年,碧昂斯对时代思潮的把握变成了一种束缚。《周六夜现场》(Saturday Night Live)最近的一个小品讲的就是碧昂斯崇拜在美国已经成义务了,排斥碧昂斯的人将被致命的政府暴徒“碧机构”(Beygency)追踪并消灭(“他背叛了自己的祖国……和它的女王,”画外音洪亮地说道)。就像《周六夜现场》暗示的那样,碧昂斯已经不只是个超级明星。她是一种国家领袖,是圈的老大;她是典型的美国事物。毋庸置疑,有一天,她在《单身女士》录影带中穿的紧身连衣裤将和米老鼠、福特T型汽车以及路易·阿姆斯特朗(Louis Armstrong)的小号一起出现在史密森尼物馆的展柜里。Historically speaking, this is no small achievement. Black women have always been dominant figures in American popular music, but no one, not even Aretha Franklin, has reached the plateau that Beyoncé occupies: pop star colossus, adored bombshell, ;America#39;s sweetheart.; Inevitably, Beyoncé is also a flashpoint, provoking ire from naysayers and ideologues of all stripes. In March, Bill O#39;Reilly decried ;Partition,; a song that details a Beyoncé-Jay Z tryst in a limousine, for setting a poor example for ;girls of color.; (Postmarital sex between consenting adults: immoral.) Last month, the black feminist author and activist Bell Hooks told an audience at a New School symposium: ;I see a part of Beyoncé that is in fact antifeminist, that is assaulting — that is a terrorist . . . especially in terms of the impact on young girls.; There is a growing scholarly literature on Beyoncé; the Women#39;s and Gender Studies department at Rutgers University has offered an undergraduate course called ;Politicizing Beyoncé.; Beyoncé is, as a cultural studies professor might put it, popular culture#39;s most richly multivalent ;text.; The question these days is not, What does the new Beyoncé record sound like? It#39;s, What does Beyoncé mean?从历史角度讲,这绝不是小小的成就。黑人女性一直是美国流行乐坛的主力军,但是没有人,甚至包括艾瑞莎·弗兰克林(Aretha Franklin),曾达到碧昂斯现在占据的高度:流行歌坛巨星,性感尤物,“美国甜心”。同时,碧昂斯也必然是个导火线,引起了爱唱反调的人以及各种思想家的愤怒。3月份,比尔·奥赖利(Bill O#39;Reilly)认为《隔离》(Partition)给“深色皮肤的女孩”树立了一个坏榜样。这首歌详细描述了碧昂斯和Jay Z在豪华轿车中的一次约会(成年人的婚后性爱:有伤风化)。上个月,黑人女权主义作家、活动家贝尔·胡克斯(Bell Hooks)在新学院(New School)的一次研讨会上对观众说:“我觉得从某些方面讲,碧昂斯实际上是反女性主义者,有破坏力,是恐怖分子……尤其是从她对年轻女孩的影响方面讲。”有越来越多的关于碧昂斯的学术研究。罗格斯大学的女人和性别研究系开设了一门本科生课程,名叫“碧昂斯政治化”。就像文化研究教授可能说的那样,碧昂斯是流行文化中最具有丰富多重意义的“文本”。如今的问题不是碧昂斯的新专辑听起来如何,而是碧昂斯意味着什么?Of course, the meaning begins with sound — with the tone and timbre of Beyoncé#39;s voice, one of the most compelling instruments in popular music. Beyoncé has traditionalist skills. She can belt an adult contemporary ballad like Barbra Streisand; she can deliver a fiery gospel testimonial; she can channel Michael Jackson (;Love on Top;) or imitate Prince#39;s falsetto (;No Angel;). But she is unmistakably a product of the hip-hop era, a singer who has assimilated the aggression and slippery rhythms of rap into a virtuosic and strange vocal style. We have gotten so used to Beyoncé, it may be hard to grasp what an oddball she is, how different her approach to rhythm, melody and harmony are to those of previous generations. You can hear that eccentricity in the wild timbral shifts and skittering syncopations of ;Drunk in Love,; a half-sung, half-rapped hit that sounds, in the best sense, like a song Beyoncé is improvising from scratch in real time. Like all innovators, Beyoncé has pushed back boundaries, expanding our sense of what music should sound like. To the extent that we hear Beyoncé as ;pop,; it#39;s because she has taught us to do so.当然,意义始于声音——碧昂斯的音调和音质是流行乐坛最引人注目的利器之一。碧昂斯还有传统主义技巧。她能像芭芭拉·史翠珊(Barbra Streisand)那样高歌成人当代抒情歌曲,也能演唱热烈的福音歌曲;她能模仿迈克尔·杰克逊(Michael Jackson,比如《爱情至上》[Love on Top]),也能模仿“王子”(Prince)的假声(比如《非天使》[No Angel])。但她毋庸置疑是嘻哈音乐时代的产物,她吸收说唱乐的攻击性和变幻的节奏,形成一种艺术性的、奇怪的演唱风格。我们太习惯于碧昂斯的唱腔了,所以可能没有想过她其实是个多么古怪的歌手,她对节奏、旋律和和声的把握与之前几代音乐人是多么不同。在《醉在爱里》狂野的多音色变化和跳跃的切分音中,你能感受到那种古怪。这首半演唱半说唱的热门歌曲听起来像是碧昂斯从头即兴创作的一首歌。和所有的创新者一样,碧昂斯打破界线,扩展了我们对音乐听起来应该是怎样的看法。以至于我们觉得碧昂斯就是“流行音乐”,因为她教我们这样认为。She#39;s taught the world to see music differently, too. The 17 s for her latest album capture the star in a head-spinning variety of attitudes and alter-egos: as a beauty pageant contestant; as a moll with a flapper haircut; as a roller-disco queen; as the leader of a militant street mob with her hair dyed green; as a Houston homegirl, vamping on a street in the city#39;s hardscrabble Third Ward, with a nasty-looking dog on a leash; as a stripper, an ardent lover, a wife; and, in ;Blue,; as an earth-mother-with-child, strolling a sun-dazzled strip of Brazilian coastline with her daughter, Blue Ivy. More than three decades after the rise of MTV, there are still those who view music s as debased or ;inauthentic.; But Beyoncé#39;s music is inseparable from her movie-star magnetism: the way she stares down a camera, strikes a pose, wears her clothes and, especially, the way she dances. And why not? Popular music has always been an audiovisual medium. If Beyoncé is the dominant figure in 21st-century music, perhaps it#39;s because pop has circumnavigated back to its 19th-century vaudevillian roots, to a time before disembodied voices came to us through hi-fi speakers or noise-canceling headphones, when music was, exclusively, a performing art. Beyoncé is the greatest old-fashioned singer and hoofer, the supreme show-woman, in an era when, once again, we#39;ve learned to love a splashy musical show.她还教这个世界用不同的眼光看音乐。在她最新专辑的17个录影带中,这位巨星表现出令人头晕目眩的各种态度和人格:选美比赛选手;发型轻佻的;旱冰迪斯科女王;好斗的绿发街头暴徒头目;休斯敦居家女孩,在该市贫穷的第三区的街头色诱男人,手里牵着一只长相凶恶的小;脱衣舞女,热烈的情人,妻子;在《蓝色》(Blue)中,扮演一位能生儿育女的母亲,和女儿布鲁·艾薇(Blue Ivy)在阳光炫目的巴西海岸漫步。音乐录影带崛起30多年来,仍有人认为它低劣、“不真实”,但是碧昂斯的音乐和她电影明星般的魅力是不可分割的:她注视摄像机、摆姿势、穿衣、特别是跳舞的方式,特别吸引人。为什么不呢?流行音乐一直都是一种视听媒体。如果说碧昂斯是21世纪音乐界的主导人物,也许是因为流行音乐又回归到了19世纪轻歌舞剧的根源,回到了我们通过高保真音响或降噪耳机聆听没有实体的声音之前的时代,那时音乐是唯一的表演艺术。碧昂斯是最优秀的传统歌手和职业舞蹈家,是无与伦比的表演歌手,在这个年代,我们再次学会了热爱炫目的音乐表演。Of course, she#39;s more than that. Literally and figuratively, Beyoncé is a moving target — it#39;s as difficult to get a fix on her as it would be to keep up with her on the dance floor. Beyoncé represents down-home earthiness and impossible glamour, soul-woman warmth and diva hauteur, a nose-to-the-grindstone work ethic and garish 1 percent excess. Her new album is sexed-up to the point of lewdness, with punch lines about body fluids on evening wear and intimations of rough sex. Yet the sex — in the limo, in the kitchen, everywhere, apparently, but the bedroom — is married sex, family-values sex, which, the album makes clear, produced a bouncing baby girl, a result perhaps even Bill O#39;Reilly can feel good about.当然,她不只如此。不管从字面意思还是象征意义上讲,碧昂斯都是一个移动靶——你很难定位她,也很难在舞池上跟上她的步伐。碧昂斯既有美国南方的质朴,也有不可思议的魅力、黑人女性的温暖和天后的傲慢——专注的职业精神和1%的过分炫耀。她的新专辑对性欲的挑逗达到了淫荡的程度,其中一些歌词提到了晚礼上的体液,暗示着粗野的性爱。但是其中的性爱——在豪华轿车上,在厨房里,在所有的地方,但是显然不在卧室里——是婚后的性爱,是家庭价值观念里的性爱,专辑中明确说明,这样的性爱育了一个活泼的女婴,这样的结果恐怕连比尔·奥赖利也会感到欣慰。Beyoncé#39;s songs are packed tight with such contradictions. Think of ;Single Ladies,; an anthem of feisty feminist solidarity that endorses the most retrograde diamonds-are-a-girl#39;s-best-friend brand of transactional romance: ;If you liked it, then you should have put a ring on it.; Or consider ;***Flawless,; on the new album, which throws together a dizzying mix of sounds and signifiers. There#39;s a clamorous trap beat and pitch-shifted vocals; there are shout-outs to Houston (;H-town vicious;) and to Jay Z#39;s record label, Roc Nation (;My Roc, flawless;). There are coarse mean-girl threats (;Bow down, bitches!;) and a sampled snippet from a TEDx talk by the Nigerian novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie titled ;We Should All Be Feminists,; which wags a finger at mean-girl threats: ;We raise girls to see each other as competitors.; The intersperses an excerpt from 10-year-old Beyoncé#39;s appearance on the TV talent show ;Star Search; with the current-day Beyoncé, clad in Kurt Cobain flannel, executing a spectacular dance routine in a dank basement surrounded by skinheads. It#39;s all tied together by a refrain — ;I woke up like this!; — which, among other things, does double duty as a boast about effortless beauty and a mantra of enlightenment. What does Beyoncé mean? What doesn#39;t she mean.碧昂斯的歌充满了这样的矛盾。比如《单身女士》,它是一首对活跃的女性主义团结的赞歌,但是它赞同最退化的“钻石是女孩最好的朋友”式的交易型恋爱:“如果你喜欢它,那你就应该在上面放个戒指。”又如新专辑中的《***无瑕》(***Flawless),它把声音和信号令人眩晕地结合在一起。其中有喧闹的打击乐和音高不断变化的唱腔;有对休斯顿的呼喊(“堕落的H市”),也有对Jay Z唱片公司Roc Nation的赞美(“我的Roc,完美无瑕”)。既有刻薄女孩的粗俗威胁(“鞠躬,贱人!”),也有尼日利亚小说家奇玛曼达·恩格兹·阿迪切(Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie)在TEDx大会上的演讲片段,演讲题目叫《我们都应该做女权主义者》(We Should All Be Feminists),它不赞同刻薄女孩的威胁:“我们养女孩就是要互相竞争。”音乐录影带把碧昂斯10岁时在电视才艺表演节目《明日之星》(Star Search)中的片段与如今的碧昂斯的镜头穿插起来,现在的她穿着科特·柯本(Kurt Cobain)式法兰绒衣,在一个阴湿的地下室跳舞,周围全是光头青年。一句副歌把这些联系到了一起——“我醒来就变成这样了!”——这句话和其他很多内容一样,有双重意义,既是对自己天生丽质的吹嘘,又像是开悟的咒语。碧昂斯意味着什么?她意味着一切。 /201409/329821

There are many wines that are much beloved -- and a few that are notoriously reviled. Silver Oak Cellars Cabernet happens to be both. It#39;s incredibly popular, especially among patrons of American steakhouses. It#39;s also a running joke among certain oenophiles who regard it as the choice of vinous rubes. 有很多葡萄酒深受人们喜爱——也有些酒饱受非议。Silver Oak Cellars的解百纳(Cabernet)碰巧都是。这款酒非常受欢迎,特别是在美国牛排餐厅。在有些葡萄酒爱好者看来,这款酒却一直是个笑话,他们认为嗜酒的乡巴佬才会选择。I first experienced this peculiar dichotomy a dozen years ago at the late Veritas restaurant in New York. I#39;d spent the better part of a week following the Veritas wine team -- Tim Kopec, Eric Zillier and Joshua Nadel -- around for a magazine story. The crew was one of the best in New York, as was their wine list, which was deep in selections from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone, and also featured lots of expensive California Cabernets. It was Silver Oak alone that provoked Scott Bryan, the restaurant#39;s chef at the time, to make a sort of mocking salute whenever the sommelier carried it through the kitchen and into the dining room (which was fairly often). 我最早体验到这种奇怪的矛盾现象是十几年前在如今已经关闭的纽约Veritas餐厅。那周大部分时间我都跟着Veritas的葡萄酒团队——蒂姆·科佩茨(Tim Kopec)、埃里克·齐利亚(Eric Zillier)和乔舒亚·纳德尔(Joshua Nadel)——到处跑,为的是给杂志写一篇稿子。这个团队是纽约最棒的,他们的酒单也一样,都是从波尔多(Bordeaux)、勃艮第(Burgundy)和罗纳河谷(Rhone Valley)精心挑选的酒,还有很多昂贵的加州解百纳。单单Silver Oak惹着了当时餐厅的主厨斯科特·布莱恩(Scott Bryan),每次品酒师拿着酒穿过厨房去餐厅时,他就会做出某种嘲笑的手势。The gesture was certainly tame compared with some of the less than flattering names I#39;ve heard applied to Silver Oak over the years. (#39;Silver Joke#39; is one of the more printable ones.) I can#39;t think of another wine that has elicited such vitriol, even though there are plenty of other ubiquitous and rich California Cabernets that would seem to be equally fair game: Jordan, Caymus and Opus One, to name a few. Why was Silver Oak singled out? 和我多年来听过的对Silver Oak不那么讨喜的某些评价(“Silver Joke”是其中能上台面的评价之一)相比,这个手势肯定是无伤大雅。我想不出还有哪款葡萄酒遭到过如此恶毒的评价,即便还有大量随处可见的昂贵加州解百纳似乎也差不多:比如Jordan、Caymus和Opus One。为什么偏偏Silver Oak被拎出来了?I posed the question to Mr. Zillier, who left Veritas almost 10 years ago. He is now the customer-relations manager of SevenFifty Technologies, a New York-based online wine buying resource for retailers and restaurateurs. One of the reasons that Silver Oak Cabernets (the winery produces one from Napa and one from Sonoma) are reviled, said Mr. Zillier, has to do with the upfront oak and fruit. He said it#39;s an unchallenging, obvious wine #39;for people who think they know a lot about wine.#39; How did he envision a Silver Oak-loving type? #39;It#39;s generally someone who is confident and conservatively dressed,#39; Mr. Zillier said. 我向10年前离开Veritas的齐利亚提出了这个问题。他现在是纽约SevenFifty Technologies的客户关系经理,该公司专门为零售商和餐厅提供葡萄酒网上购买资源。齐利亚说,Silver Oak的这两款解百纳(一款产自纳帕谷(Napa),一款产自索诺玛(Sonoma))之所以评价不好,一个原因和用的橡木和葡萄有关系。他说这是一款“对自以为很了解葡萄酒的人”来说毫无挑战性、平淡无奇的葡萄酒。那他是怎么看喜欢Silver Oak 葡萄酒的人的?齐利亚说:“一般是自信而且穿着保守的人。”I#39;ve been in wine shops across the country that won#39;t sell Silver Oak, the same way that a cool indie bookstore might shun Danielle Steel. One such retailer in suburban Dallas, who didn#39;t want to be identified for fear of alienating his Silver Oak-drinking friends, explained that he stocked many more interesting wines. Gary Fisch, owner of Gary#39;s Wine shops in New Jersey, which sells a good amount of Silver Oak Cabernet, said he thought that dislike of the wine was a bit of a bandwagon phenomenon. #39;Silver Oak is the wine that#39;s sexy to hate.#39; 我去过全美各地不愿意卖Silver Oak的葡萄酒行,这些酒行不卖Silver Oak就跟一家很酷的独立书店不会卖丹尼尔·斯蒂尔(Danielle Steel)的书一样。达拉斯郊区就有一个零售商解释说他存了很多更有意思的葡萄酒。他不愿意透露姓名,怕疏远喜欢喝Silver Oak的朋友。新泽西州的Gary#39;s Wine葡萄酒行有很多Silver Oak解百纳出售,老板加里·菲什(Gary Fisch)说,他觉得对这款葡萄酒的厌恶有点像是从众效应。他说:“不喜欢Silver Oak是很酷的一件事情。”The winery#39;s aging process is a possible factor in the Silver Oak controversy. Unlike just about every other Cabernet made in Napa Valley, Silver Oak is aged in American oak, which adds sweet notes of vanilla and, some even say, coconut. (Silver Oak makes its own barrels.) The more commonly used French oak is far more subtle, with spicy aromas. Silver Oak的陈酿过程可能是该酒遭到争议的一个因素。与其他所有产自纳帕谷的解百纳不同的是,Silver Oak是在美国橡木桶里陈酿的,从而增加了香草的甜味,有些人甚至会说有椰子味。(Silver Oak自己生产木桶。)更常用的法国橡木桶更精致些,有辛辣香气。And yet Silver Oak also has a large, and very passionate, following. The winery produces just under 100,000 cases of their two Cabernets annually, and their tasting room has won raves from amateur drinkers and wine professionals alike. 不过Silver Oak也有一大群非常热情的粉丝。Silver Oak的两款解百纳每年产量不到10万箱,而酒庄的品酒室赢得了包括业余和专业人士在内的葡萄酒爱好者的盛赞。Silver Oak Cellars, founded in 1972 by Ray Duncan and Justin Meyer, was one of the few serious wineries in Napa 40 years ago. Its earliest Cabernets bore a #39;North Coast#39; appellation, suggesting the grapes had been sourced from all over the northern part of the state. It wasn#39;t until 1979 that the winery produced a Napa Cabernet. (A 1977 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet came out before.) Silver Oak Cellars于1972年由雷·邓肯(Ray Duncan)和贾斯汀·梅耶(Justin Meyer)创立,在40年前的纳帕谷是少数几家正经的酒庄之一。其最早的解百纳标着“北海岸”产区的标签,表明葡萄来自加州北部各个地区。直到1979年才生产纳帕谷解百纳。(1977年出过一款Silver Oak亚历山大谷解百纳( Alexander Valley Cabernet)。)Silver Oak Cabernet sells well all over the country, but thanks to its big, ripe flavor profile, it#39;s particularly successful in steakhouses. It#39;s a regular top-seller at Empire Steak House in New York and at Del Frisco#39;s steakhouses across the country. Jessica Certo, sommelier of Del Frisco#39;s in New York, said that she couldn#39;t keep Silver Oak in stock. #39;We sell out of every vintage,#39; she said. Silver Oak解百纳在全美各地销量不错,但由于其浓郁成熟的口味,在牛排馆里尤其畅销。它在纽约帝国牛排餐厅(Empire Steak House)和全美各地的Del Frisco#39;s牛排店经常是最畅销的葡萄酒。纽约Del Frisco#39;s牛排店的品酒师杰西卡·塞尔托(Jessica Certo)说,店里存不了Silver Oak。她说:“每款年份酒都卖光了。”It was as if the wine simultaneously existed in two different worlds. I wondered if the winery#39;s owners were aware that their Cabernet was such a lightning rod. I called David Duncan, Silver Oak#39;s CEO and president, to ask his thoughts on the chatter his wine inspired. #39;I know there were a couple of somms in Texas who were saying some things,#39; said Mr. Duncan, sounding unfazed. 就好像这款酒同时存在于两个世界里。我在想酒庄的老板们是否意识到他们的解百纳成了这样一个众矢之的。我致电Silver Oak首席执行长兼总裁大卫·邓肯(David Duncan),询问他对自己的葡萄酒引起的争议有何看法。他说:“我知道在得克萨斯州有几个品酒师在说三道四。” 他听起来泰然自若。I was surprised to learn that an anti-Silver Oak sommelier could get a job, let alone rise to a position of influence, in the steakhouse-centric Lone Star state. Mr. Duncan said that Texas was one of the winery#39;s most important markets, along with California and Florida. In any case, he said, #39;We#39;re not interested in what a few people say. I really don#39;t see it as that big of a deal. We have tens of thousands of customers who like our wines.#39; Could the oak#39;s sweetness be too much for some people? #39;We produce wines that people like,#39; he said. 得知在以牛排馆为主的得克萨斯州,反感Silver Oak的品酒师竟然能找到工作,我感到很意外,更意外的是他们竟然还能升到有影响力的职位。邓肯说,得州是酒庄最重要的市场之一,还有加州和佛罗里达。他说,无论如何,“我们都对少数人说什么不感兴趣。我真的觉得没什么大不了。我们有成千上万喜欢我们葡萄酒的客户。”橡木的甜味对有些人来说是不是太重了?他说:“我们生产人们喜欢的葡萄酒。”Older vintages of Silver Oak Cabernet, which tend to show less overt oak, also have a few of their own fans, and foes. The winery#39;s production was much smaller back in the 1980s -- it made about 30,000 cases per year of both Cabernets, less than a third of today#39;s output. 较早年份的Silver Oak解百纳往往橡木味没那么重,这些酒也有一些自己的粉丝,当然也有人不喜欢。1980年代,酒庄的生产规模比现在小得多,这两款解百纳每年的产量约3万箱,不到现今产量的三分之一。Ariana Rolich, an American- and Spanish-wine buyer at Chambers Street Wines in New York, is an aficionado of the old Silver Oak, and has several like-minded customers who, she notes, are quite different from lovers of the new wines (which Chambers Street does not stock). 纽约Chambers Street Wines 酒行负责采购美国和西班牙葡萄酒的阿里安娜·罗利克(Ariana Rolich)是传统Silver Oak葡萄酒的拥趸,她说有很多跟她志同道合的客户,他们跟喜欢新式酒的人很不一样。Chambers Street不卖新式Silver Oak葡萄酒。#39;People are surprised when they see the bottles in our store,#39; Ms. Rolich said when I mentioned my own shock at seeing them during a recent visit. #39;Sometimes I have to gently take the bottles out of customers#39; hands when I realize they expect them to taste like the Silver Oaks they know.#39; Right now the store has a selection of Silver Oak Cabernets from the 1970s and #39;80s, and one 1998 wine, all of which the store purchased from individuals. 最近去Chambers Street时我看到了以前的酒。看我表示震惊,罗利克说:“人们在我们店里看到这些酒都很惊讶。有时我不得不轻轻地把酒从顾客手里拿过来,因为我意识到他们期望这些酒的味道和他们所知道的Silver Oaks一样。”目前店里有70年代和80年代的Silver Oak解百纳,还有一瓶1998年的酒,都是从个人手里收购而来。What does Ms. Rolich recommend the new Silver Oak lover buy instead? #39;Probably the White Cottage Cuvee or a Matthiasson red,#39; she said, naming two small, cultish California producers. Although White Cottage winery has since closed, the makers of Matthiasson would probably be surprised to hear their wine was considered to be a Silver Oak alternate. #39;I might also suggest a younger Rioja, since they use American oak in Rioja, too,#39; Ms. Rolich added. #39;Essentially you have to give them the most luscious wine that you have.#39; 那么对于喜欢新式Silver Oak葡萄酒的人,罗利克推荐买什么呢?她说:“White Cottage Cuvee或者Matthiasson红葡萄酒吧。”她提到的是两家小规模的小众加州生产商。虽然White Cottage酒庄已经关了,但听到自己的酒被认为是Silver Oak 的替代品,Matthiasson的酿酒师应该会感到惊讶吧。罗利克说:“我可能还会推荐比较年轻的里奥哈(Rioja),因为他们在里奥哈也用美国橡木。起码应该把你手里最香甜美味的葡萄酒给他们。”Although I#39;m a fan of wines that are luscious, I#39;ve never been fond of an overt use of oak. I last tasted Silver Oak many, many years ago. In fact, it was the first wine I was able to identify blind -- I was given a glass at a Vermont resort and told to guess its identity. I got it on my first try. I wanted to see what I thought of it today. 尽管我喜欢香甜美味的葡萄酒,但我向来不喜欢橡木味太重。我上次尝Silver Oak是好多年前。事实上,这是第一款我能够盲品出来的酒——我在佛蒙特州(Vermont)的一个度假村时,有人让我尝了一杯,让我猜是什么酒。我一口就猜中了。我想知道现在我怎么看这款酒。So I bought a bottle of 1982 Silver Oak Alexander Valley (6) and the 2008 and 2009 vintages of both the Napa and Alexander Valley wines (0 and , respectively). (Silver Oak releases its wines much later than most California Cabernet producers, who are on their 2010 and 2011 vintages.) 于是我买了一瓶1982年的Silver Oak Alexander Valley(106美元),还有2008年和2009年产自纳帕谷和亚历山大谷的年份酒(分别为110美元和60美元)。(Silver Oak比大多数加州解百纳生产商推出葡萄酒的时间都晚,他们现在都在推2010 和2011年的年份酒。)For my tasting, I invited a couple I know to join me. The husband was a Silver Oak-loving fellow who had even visited the label#39;s property long ago. I offered them dinner, too -- steak, of course. 我邀请了一对认识的夫妇和我一起品酒。丈夫喜欢喝Silver Oak,很久以前甚至参观过酒庄。我还请他们吃了晚餐——当然是牛排。The results could be summed up by that word that frustrates all wine drinkers: inconclusive. While I#39;d been impressed by how well the 32-year-old 1982 Alexander Valley Cabernet was holding up, with a still-firm acidity, soft tannins and a brown-sugared apple sort of fruit, my Silver Oak-loving friend was of a different opinion. He#39;s used to lots of young, luscious fruit, and thought it was #39;too old.#39; The fruit was faded and the notes were more earthy. 结果可以用那个让所有葡萄酒爱好者沮丧的词来总结:没有结论。我惊讶于32年陈酿的1982年Alexander Valley Cabernet能够保持得如此之好,酸度依然稳固,单宁柔和,红糖煎苹果般的果香,但我那位喜欢Silver Oak的朋友看法不同。他习惯浓郁的未成熟葡萄的甘甜果味,觉得这个“太老了”。这款酒的果味淡了,更具泥土芳香。We were all pleased by both of the 2008 Cabernets -- the wife#39;s and my favorite was the more restrained Alexander Valley, while the husband liked the Napa, which was a bit richer and more full-bodied than the Alexander Valley bottling. None of us much cared for the 2009 wines, which were both much oakier, the fruit sweeter and more overt. The 2009 Napa bottling in particular was decidedly young, but also tiring to drink -- it was sweet, with over- the-top ripeness. #39;And it#39;s certainly not cheap,#39; the wife said of the 0 price tag. 我们对两款2008年的解百纳都很满意——我和那位妻子最喜欢比较内敛的亚历山大谷,而那位丈夫喜欢纳帕,味道比亚历山大谷浓郁,酒体更饱满。我们都不太喜欢2009年的酒,橡木味都比较浓重,果味更甜也更明显。2009年的纳帕毫无疑问很年轻,但喝起来也很无聊——很甜,成熟的过头了。那位妻子评价这款110美元的葡萄酒说:“肯定也不便宜。”However sexy it might be to hate Silver Oak, I simply found that I couldn#39;t. Maybe it was because I was surprised by how well the 1982 wine showed at such an advanced age, or maybe it#39;s because I#39;ve had much worse wines. Or maybe just because it went so well with the steak. 无论对Silver Oak表示反感显得多酷,我发现我还是做不到。也许是因为我对那瓶1982年的酒过了这么多年仍然保持得这么好感到惊讶,也许是因为我尝过更糟糕的酒。又或许只是因为它和牛排是绝配。 /201404/285501

First came the wave of manufacturing, with Samsung and LG; then the K-pop stars, whose ubiquity reached its regrettable height with Psy. Now comes the latest import from South Korea: a formidable array of beauty products.先是以三星和LG为代表的制造业;然后是韩国流行歌手,可惜他们的巅峰止于鸟叔(Psy)。现在是韩国的最新进口产品:一系列势不可挡的美容产品。It all started with the BB cream. In early 2011, the Korean brand Dr. Jart introduced two BB creams at Sephora in the ed States. They had dermatologic roots, intended to protect and heal patients#39; skin after treatment, and had been popular as all-in-one skin-care and makeup products in Korea for several years before they came to the ed States.一切都始于BB霜。2011年初,韩国品牌蒂佳婷(Dr. Jart)在美国丝芙兰化妆品商店(Sephora)推出了两款BB霜。BB霜有皮肤病学的渊源,最初是为了保护和修复治疗后的皮肤。作为一款全效护肤化妆品,它进入美国前已经在韩国畅销了好几年。The cream was a hit. Major beauty companies took note. Soon enough, it had spawned versions from L#39;Oréal, Smashbox, Clinique, Jane Iredale, Stila and Dior — and paved the way for a Korean beauty invasion of the ed States.BB霜很受欢迎。大牌化妆品公司纷纷效仿。很快,欧莱雅、Smashbox、倩碧(Clinique)、珍爱芮德(Jane Iredale)、丝狄拉(Stila)和迪奥(Dior)等品牌都推出了自己的BB霜,为韩国化妆品进军美国铺平了道路。The beauty market has long been led by European countries, which were thought to be the source of innovation. But in recent years, American women (and beauty companies), their interest piqued by the BB cream, began to look more closely at Korean multistep skin-care regimens, and they liked what they saw.长期以来,化妆品市场由欧洲国家主导,欧洲被认为是创新之源。但是近些年,美国女人(以及美国化妆品公司)对韩国的兴趣被BB霜勾了起来,开始更密切地关注韩式多步护肤法,她们对其护肤效果也感到满意。;It shifted our consciousness on what it means to take care of your skin,; said Megan McIntyre, the beauty director at the lifestyle site Refinery29. Seeing the care Korean women devote to their skin made consumers curious about new techniques, Ms. McIntyre said, adding that the often adorably twee packaging, high-tech innovations (peel-off lip stains, overnight masks) and affordable prices have not hurt, either. But let no one think that Korean women just slap on a BB cream and call it a day.“它改变了我们对护肤的看法,”生活方式网站Refinery29的美容总监梅根·麦金太尔(Megan McIntyre)说。麦金太尔说,顾客们看过韩国女人对护肤的投入后,对新技术很好奇。她补充说,况且韩国化妆品的包装大多很可爱,又有高科技创新(撕拉式唇、睡眠面膜),价格也能承受。但是可别以为韩国女人涂上BB霜就完事了。;The American approach is: the simpler the better, the faster I can get out the door,; said Cindy Kim, a founder of Peach and Lily, one of a number of online retailers, including Soko Glam and Memebox, that sells Korean beauty products. ;The Korean mentality is comprehensive and detailed.;桃子与百合(Peach and Lily)是一家销售韩国化妆品的在线零售商(类似的还有Soko Glam和Memebox)。它的创始人辛迪·金(Cindy Kim)说,“美国女人的方式是:越简单越好,这样我就能更快出门;韩国女人的心态则是全面而细致。”And it is exhaustive. First, there#39;s cleansing, often with two different cleansers (one oil-based to remove makeup, then a foaming cleanser), followed by a toner to balance pH levels on the face.而且韩式化妆非常彻底。先是洁面,通常要用两种洁面产品(先是卸妆油,然后是泡沫洁面乳),然后用柔肤水平衡脸上的pH值。Then there are ;essences; and serums, which is ;where the number of steps can blow up,; Ms. Kim said. The serums often target single issues: aging, radiance, hydration, redness. An eye cream, plus moisturizer, and BB cream (for day) or an overnight sleep mask are applied next and all sealed with a mist. There is even a term for the desired plump and sticky feeling after application of these products: ;chok chok.;之后使用精华液。“这里的步骤可以无限多,”金说。精华液通常是针对单个问题的:延缓老化,提亮肤色,补水,使脸色红润。然后用眼霜、滋润霜和BB霜(白天用)或睡眠面膜,最后用喷雾定妆。韩语中甚至有个词来形容用完这些产品后所期待的饱满水润的感觉:chok chok(大意是水灵灵的)。Taking a half-hour for your skin-care routine ;isn#39;t weird,;said Esther Dong, the senior vice president for marketing at the Korean line Amorepacific, whose Time Response anti-aging moisturizers are selling well in the ed States. ;When people describe a beautiful girl in the U.S., it#39;s all about the body, and the third or fourth sentence is about the face. When you describe a beautiful girl in Asia, it#39;s about her face and how pure and fine her skin is.;韩国化妆品公司爱茉莉(Amorepacific)的市场营销高级副总裁埃斯特·董(Esther Dong)说,花半小时护肤“不奇怪”。该公司的时光幻(Time Response)抗老化保湿霜在美国很畅销。“美国人描述美女全是在说身材,第三或第四句话才提到脸。亚洲人说美女是说她脸庞俊秀、皮肤纯净。”Such standards are reflective of Korean culture at large. ;The culture of South Korea is very much tied with technological advancement and the rapid pace of life,” said Richard You, the deputy general manager for Dr. Jart in the ed States. “Everyone has a smartphone, is concerned about their looks, and companies are working around the clock to provide new products. Word gets around quickly regarding what#39;s working and what#39;s not.; In Korea, more than one television show is devoted to reviewing new beauty products.这样的标准反映了韩国文化的整体面貌。“韩国文化与科技进步和生活快节奏紧密相关,”蒂佳婷美国区副总经理理查德·刘(Richard You)说,“每个人都有智能手机,很在意自己的相貌,化妆品公司夜以继日地开发新产品。关于产品效果的评价很快就会传开。”在韩国,不止一个电视节目致力于评价美容新产品。Even if American women aren#39;t likely to massage five different creams into their faces for 30 minutes, they are willing to try new products. Alicia Yoon, the other founder of Peach and Lily, reported that most of its customers are non-Asian and that, month to month, its sales nearly double.虽然美国女人不大可能花30分钟时间往脸上抹五种面霜,但她们愿意尝试新产品。桃子与百合网店的另一位创始人艾莉西娅·尹(Alicia Yoon)说,该网店的大部分顾客不是亚洲人,而且销量几乎在逐月翻倍。;The appetite is huge,; said Priya Venkatesh, who oversees the merchandising of products with Korean roots at Sephora. And not just for Korean brands. Korean-inspired masks and essences from Dior, Shiseido and SK-II are emerging as popular, she said.普里亚·凡卡泰斯(Priya Venkatesh)在丝芙兰公司负责与韩国有关的美容产品的促销活动。她说,“顾客们很感兴趣”,而且不只是对韩国品牌,迪奥、资生堂和SK-II等品牌受韩国美容产品启发开发的面膜和精华液也开始流行。American companies are also hoping to strike a chord with similar products. Peter Thomas Roth, a skin-care line in New York, makes a CC cream (a lighter sibling to the BB cream) in South Korea. Its answer to the Korean essence, a step between cleansing and treatment, is its Un-Wrinkle Turbo Line Smoothing Lotion. It also has a sleeping mask (a concentrated mask you wear overnight) and an oil-like product made from squalene, which comes from sugar cane and has long been popular in Asia.美国化妆品公司也希望用类似的产品打动顾客。纽约护肤品牌彼得罗夫(Peter Thomas Roth)在韩国生产CC霜(一款比BB霜清淡的产品)。它的精纯胜肽精华(Un-Wrinkle Turbo Line Smoothing Lotion)是一款与韩国的精华液(清洁和护肤之间的一个步骤)类似的产品。它也有睡眠面膜(可以敷着入睡的浓缩面膜),还有一款用鲨烯做的卸妆油,这种从甘蔗中提取出来的鲨烯在亚洲流行已久。For sure, there is an exoticism to Korean ingredients, with products like LadyKin Vanpir Dark Repair Cream (which touts Red Dragon Blood Resin Extract) and Mizon Returning Starfish Cream (with 70 percent starfish extract). Alpha-hydroxy acid-based peeling foot masks that remove layers of dead skin have been gaining followers here, the most popular being Baby Foot. (Best not to Google the product. Eeew.)毫无疑问,韩国护肤品的成分具有异国情调,比如LadyKin吸血鬼暗黑复活面霜(LadyKin Vanpir Dark Repair Cream,含有红龙木树脂提取液)和谜之芬海星再生面霜(Mizon Returning Starfish Cream,含有70%的海星萃取物)。果酸去死皮足膜在美国也被追捧,最流行的是宝贝脚(Baby Foot)牌的(最好别去谷歌上搜索这种产品。呃!)。So pronounced is the interest in Korean products among Refinery29 ers that Ms. McIntyre recently hired Joyce Kong, a Korean-American writer in Seoul, as its Korean beauty correspondent.Refinery29网站的读者们对韩国护肤品的兴趣非常明显,所以麦金太尔最近聘用首尔的韩裔美国作家乔伊斯·孔(Joyce Kong)担任韩国美容记者。;Every month there#39;s something new, so much of my job is to figure out, is this a fad or something that#39;s going to be a real trend?” Ms. Kong said. “There has been snail cream and snake venom lotion. Right now donkey milk is a thing.;“每个月都有新产品,我的工作很大一部分是弄清楚某种新产品只是一时流行还是会成为真正的潮流,”孔说,“曾有过蜗牛霜和蛇毒液。现在新出现的是驴奶。”A contender for the next blockbuster is the single-use sheet mask, a piece of thin paper or fabric coated in active ingredients. ;Say my skin routine focuses on hydrating and firming,; Ms. Yoon said, “but I#39;ve been tired so I want something to promote an inner glow. That#39;s where a mask comes in.”下一个热门可能是一次性薄片面膜,就是一片涂有活性成分的薄纸或薄布。“比如,我平常护肤主要是补水和紧致,”尹说,“但我感到疲倦,想提升皮肤的内在光。这时就需要面膜。”In Korea, these are aly ubiquitous. ;You walk into any drugstore and there are walls filled with sheet masks that cost anywhere from to ,; Ms. Kim said. “They#39;re very much part of the routine over there.;在韩国,这些已经非常普遍。“你走进任何一家化妆品商店,都能看见墙上摆满薄片面膜,售价从1美元到10美元不等,”金说,“在韩国,面膜几乎是必用的。”Ms. McIntyre said she thinks the next big things could be sleeping masks and cushion compacts, in which BB cream in a compact form comes with a spongelike applicator for a dewy finish.麦金太尔认为接下来流行的可能是睡眠面膜和气垫BB霜。BB霜紧密地填在盒内,附有海绵状的敷抹器,能让皮肤最后呈现出水灵灵的感觉。One sure thing is that beauty companies will continue looking to Korea. Ms. McIntyre said, “It has become almost an arms race to see what the next big thing will be.;有一点是可以肯定的:化妆品公司将继续向韩国学习。麦金太尔说,“大家都争着开发下一个热门产品,有点像军备竞赛。” /201411/340861


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